Typically, I don't have a "must return by X p.m." time. Just let me know via text message (you can do it via the Outdoorsy site) when you're leaving your camping area so I can plan when to be at the hangar to welcome you home and get you on your way.
Breaking down the site is pretty much a reverse of what it took to get set up but to make it easier, let's just document it in order:
1) Open the power converter door (inside forward, left side near the floor, and shut off the first two circuit breakers. You can keep the powder blue circuit breaker in the "on" position.
2) Disconnect the battery by removing the white (ground/negative) wire first and then the black (positive) wire and wrap the wires so they don't drag. Put the battery in the milk crate.
If you used an electrical connection, disconnect and stow the power cable.
3) Go inside and flip the sink up. This will disconnect the lights and prevent a fire.
If you used the water tank, remove the cushions from the area over the power converter, open the top and turn the spigot to the "open" position so it drains to the ground. Leave this open, close the lid.
4) Return the table to the position you found it in, serving as the extra bed. Spread cushions out over it.
5) From outside, pull the forward bed as far forward as you can and lift. When you do, the two bracing bars will fall. Pick them up and put them under the forward mattress pad or on top of it. Repeat on the rear bed.
6) If you used the refrigerator with propane, shut the propane off at the tank. Also, remove the propane tank and place in your vehicle for safe transport. At the bottom vent cabinet on the outside left of the camper, shut the gas switch (right side) to "off" and turn the thermostat (black knob by the red button) to "gas" if it's not already there.
7) If you used the stove, disconnect it from the gas line outside, clean and store in the forward, right storage area. Stow the gas line.
8) Disconnect both the front and pack bed roof "shepherd hooks" from the ceiling and pull, then disconnect the plastic connection and put the hook under each mattress.
9) After pulling the the velcroed sections around the door frame inside and outside, unclamp the top of the door from the bottom of the door, lift it, and swing the top up to the ceiling and hook it in place.
10) Under each pull out bed area outside, unhook all of the bungee cord attachments and lift the vinyl fabric up and push it in toward the center of the camper on both the front and back.
11 Remove the two safety bars from the lifter posts at the front right and rear left and put them on top of the mattress pad .
12) Remove the two supporting bed posts, then push the back bed in, taking care to push the vinyl and fabric out of the way so it doesn't get pinched. Place the support bars on the matresspad.
13) Push the forward bed in until it hits the rear bed. You'll have to reach inside the camper where the two "tracks" meet near the door. On the side closest to the door, push the track of the forward bed so that it fits to the inside of the rear bed's track. Now you should be able to push the forward bed enough to clear the roof as it's lowered. You'll probably have to give the aft bed a shove because when you pushed the front bed in, you probably pushed the rear bed out a bit.
15) Remove the "T" bars from their slots, fold, and place on top of the mattress pad.
16) Start cranking the roof down, as you do, stop every once in awhile and go around the camper pushing the vinyl/fabric sides inboard so they don't get pinched. Push the green indicator cord on the front right post out of the way.
17) Before the roof is all the way down, close the door. Then crank the roof the rest of the way down, so there's slack in the cable. You may have to adjust the forward and rear beds so that they both fit inside the closing roof. You may have to do this a couple of times.
18) Put a little weight on each corner until it seats completely so you can latch each corner. You may have to raise the roof slightly again to adjust the bed positions. There's very little room to spare and you have to negotiate between the two to get the roof to fully close.
19) Remove the crank and store it in the milk crate.
20) Use the front jack to lower the front of the camper so that you can lift up each rear stabilizing jack by pushing the spring loaded level and raising the bottom of the jack, then swinging each (pull down first) to its traveling (horizontal) position. Again, you have to crank the front of the camper lower to have enough room to pull down the jack before being able to swing it to its horizontal position.
21) Use the racheting wrench to lower the BAL lifter jack you put under the "low wheel". Stow the jack in your vehicle. Put a set of chocks under the wheel.
22) Raise the front of the camper with the crank jack, remove the bolt/pin from the hitch clamp and flip the clamp up, move your vehicle into position and lower the tongue onto the hitch ball. Flip the clamp down and insert the bolt and nut to prevent it from disconnecting while you're driving. NOTE: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DRIVE WITHOUT THE CLAMP IN A LOCKED POSITION AND THE BOLT IN PLACE.
23) Attach the safety chains. The chain on the right goes under the tongue and attaches to the left side of your hitch. The chain on the left goes under the tongue and attaches to the right side of your hitch. This creates a "hammock" in the event the hitch disengages.
Be sure you leave enough slack in the chain and your electrical connection to allow your vehicle to turn.
24) Attach your vehicle power cable to the camper's cable. Check your brake lights and turn signals.
Double check that you've properly stored the hand crank, that all vent housing is locked, and that the door is properly secured under the roof.
BEFORE YOU DRIVE AWAY
Walk around the camper and be sure everything is OK. These are the most often neglected items:
1. Have you removed the crank from the winch and stowed it in your vehicle?
2. Have the rear stabilizing jacks been raised?
3. Is the step lifted and stowed under the door?
4. Have you raised the front hitch crank and secured it horizotally?
5. Is the leveling jack stowed in your vehicle?
6. Have you removed and stowed all wheel chalks?
7. Are the safety chains in place, the locking lever down and bolted, and electrical wires hooked up?
Failure to do any of these things will ruin your day and potentially cost you your $500 deposit.
When you're leaving your campground, send me a text message so that I can plan to be at the hangar upon your return, get you unhooked, and get you back on your way home.
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