1) Now that you've pulled into your site. CHOCK BOTH WHEELS!! Then, disconnect from your hitch using the crank jack, and move your vehicle out of the way).
(Update) Before you can level the camper, you need to swing the rear
stabilizing jacks down. You'll have to use the front jack to
lower the front of the camper first to be able to swing them down (by
pulling on them). Don't push the jack extension down quite yet. You just
want to get them the jacks in the down position.
Now, level the camper. There are two bubble levels, one on the right
side of the camper forward of the door (for leveling forward and back, best
achieved by the crank up front) and one on the left rear for side-to side
After you level it front-to-back, replace the wheel chocks on the "low side"
with the leveling jack, then, using the racheting wrench, raise it until the
bubble gauge on the back left side of the camper shows it's level. (Video here) Stow the wrench. You might doublecheck the bubble level on the side
now. Sometimes it needs adjusting after levelling side-to-side.
The better you level the camper, the easier the door will open and close. So take the time to get it right. You'll thank yourself later.
2) Unlatch all four sides of the camper top and grab the crank bar from the milk crate. Note: Do NOT lose the crank.
Insert crank into the winch housing (right side as you face forward) and crank enough to raise the top about a foot. This allows you to open the door to retrieve some parts..
3) There are four marked bars -- two for the front and two for the back -- and a pair of "T" bars, which go in the front. (These are usually found on top of the forward mattress pad or underneath it). Take them all out.
4) Now, start cranking. You'll notice the green indicator wire on the forward left post. This gives you guidance on where you are in the process. Leave flexibility in the fabric walls. Note, the wire isn't taught when the roof is fully raised. It has a little slack in it. Like this.
4) Grab the two brass-colored stabilizer bars (these are usually placed on top of the forward bed). Place one in the front right and one in the rear left (as you look forward) posts. The angled flange is the top. Push it into place. Do NOT go inside the camper without these bars in place.
TIP: If the bars slide on to the lifter posts and there's a gap between the roof and the slider bar, lower the roof slightly. This will make it easier to get the top half of the door to fit in the bottom half later in the instructions.
5) Place the T-shaped bars in the front. The pin goes in the holes on the top edge. The flat edge on the bottom slips into the open brackets on the camper frame. Make sure the pin end is pushed down all the way or you won't be able to slide the fold-out out.
6) Pull out the front bed. It should fit over the T-bars. You'll want
to pull it out all the way to the stop. It will probably bind up. Stop pulling
and check the vinyl sides to be sure it's not jammed up against a lifter post.
Then pull some more. Repeat as necessary.
7) Attach two bars to the appropriate location. The color coding of blue tells you which slots on the camper tongue the bars go into. One end goes on the bracket under the bed, one goes on the frame of the camper. Once you put one end on the camper frame, use your back (or your friend) to lift the bed slightly to get the top end to slip into this bracket.
8) Go inside and flip the sink over. The sink loads a
safety button which will allow connectivity to your DC electrical devices
(it's a safety switch so that you don't accidentally leave lights on when you
fold up the camper, causing a fire from the heat).
10) Under each mattress, there are two "cane" hooks. Snap the end with the plastic fitting onto the center of the bed roof's aluminum frame, push it out (thus raising the roof) and snap the open end into the bracket near the ceiling. Repeat on the other bed.
11) Back outside, pull the vinyl sides down as need be (be sure the extra flap of vinyl covers the corners of the bed, to keep the sharp corner from cutting the vinyl) and snap the bungee cord to the nearby posts (8 in the front, 6 in the back). Seal up the fabric around each support post using the velcro. The better you are at sealing everything up, the fewer mosquitoes you'll be dealing with. And it also will keep out the rain. Think like a mosquito here.
12) The top of the door is clamped to the ceiling. Take note of how it's clamped; it'll come in handy when you put it back up.
Swing the door down, unfasten the velcroed door side pieces of the camper, fit the two black plastic extensions on the door frame, into the recesses of the bottom door, then latch the top to the bottom door. Then velcro the sides of the door. Be careful when doing this. There isn't a lot of support for the door when it's swinging up or down.
If you have difficulty getting the plastic tabs to fit in the slots, you might lower the roof slightly. Also be sure that all fabric is away from the door frame.
Once in place carefully secure the camper skin to the velcro on the door frame, being careful not to let it overlap and pinch the door, thus making it difficult to close.
At this point, your camper is ready. Set up and connect the propane tank.
There is a 12 volt battery in the milk crate. Place it in the area near the propane tank. Connect the black (+) first, then the white (-) wire.
Once you flip up all the circuit breakers of the power converter (wait to do this if you're hooking up to campground power) , you should now have ceiling lights. The rear light has a dimmer. The front light as the option to turn one or both halves on or off.
If you have an AC hookup, pull out the long cable on the left side of the camper and plug in. Inside the camper, near the floor on the forward right side, flip down the converter door and turn on all four circuit breakers.This will allow the AC (I'm not referring to air conditioning) to operate your DC circuits (lights) and recharge the battery. The powder blue circuit breaker should also be in the "on" position.
This will also allow the AC to recharge the battery.
If you have an AC hookup, the AC outlets will work. If you do not have an AC hookup, the AC outlets in the camper will not be powered, even if the battery is attached.
If you're operating only on battery, conserve energy as much as possible to prolong the life of the battery charge.
STOVE
I recommend all cooking be done outside; it's just safer and neater for everyone. The stove hooks to the side of the camper to the left of the door (the tab on the back of the stove hooks onto the lower tab on the side of the camper), with a support post underneath. Pull the gas line out, push the fitting from the stove into the connect switch (push it in hard) and turn the stem to lock it into place.
REFRIGERATOR
The refrigerator controls are on the left side bottom vent door. There are
three ways to power it: AC, battery, and propane. If you have an electrical
hookup, that's the easiest way. Just flip the selector switch to AC and adjust
your thermostat.
The second-preferred method is via propane. Turn on the gas at the propane tank. Turn the selector switch in the vent housing area to "gas", open the gas line (to the right), and turn the black knob to the left while holding it down. Wait a second and hit the red button to spark the propane at the burner. Then open the little viewing door and confirm that there is a blue flame in there. Adjust settings.
The battery is the least-preferred method but only because I haven't yet established how long that battery will last powering both lights and refrigerator.
You'll notice the burned area. The gas fitting broke there and a small flame ensued. The fitting has been replaced and all gas lines have been subsequently checked. Don't worry.
WATER
There is a filler hole on the left side of the camper. The tank is underneath the forward, left stow area (behind the power converter). Be sure the spigot is turned to the closed position (likewise, before you pack up, be sure it's turned to the open position. It drains to the ground.
(New for 2020): I've installed a water pump and replaced the faucet. If you have electrical power, and once the tank is filled), push the faucet down to activate the pump. Alternately, you may simply pump the faucet up and down to get water.
If you have campground water, you can hook it up to keep a constant pressure. At this point, however, I have not yet tested the connection to be sure there isn't a leak when using campground (aka: "city") water, so be careful. There's no pressure regulator installed, so don't open the campground water full blast.
If you prefer to schlep your own water, I have two camp water tanks you can borrow. Just ask.
All water tanks and lines are sanitized between rentals.
HEATER
The heater operates via the propane tank but requires an electrical connection to "spark" the burner. The thermostat is on the side of the cabinet with the sink. On the bottom of the thermostat, slide the on/off switch to the right, and move the thermostat on the top to the desired temperature. The furnace blower will start in a moment. Once started, it will blow air for a minute before the heat comes up.
Do not EVER leave the camper with the heater on, even if only for a minute.
A FEW IMPORTANT NOTES
2) There are no cooking or eating utensils or dishes provided with the camper.
3) The post for the second table is in the storage area in the rear, interior of the camper.
4) The table with the folding legs also serves as the third bed. If you don't need it, set it up outside or stow it under the camper. Just don't forget it when packing up.
5) The proper tire pressure for the camper is 80 psi. This is checked minutes before you arrive, but if you're driving a long way, please check when you stop for gas. There is no jack provided for changing tires HOWEVER I do have a floor jack which I will give you during your rental on request. Be sure to ask. Or not. Your choice.
If you paid for insurance, you may have roadside assistance. Check your Outdoorsy rental agreement to confirm this.
6) The camper weighs almost 2,000 pounds. Please be sure your vehicle is tow rated to tow that sort of weight. Be sure your electrical connection to your vehicle is in working order. The camper will not be released unless brake lights, turn signals, and lights are all working on the camper.
7) Somewhere in the camper, you'll find a travel diary. Please feel free to add your stories and experiences of your trip and any messages for other campers.
If none of this made sense, try this:
The better you level the camper, the easier the door will open and close. So take the time to get it right. You'll thank yourself later.
2) Unlatch all four sides of the camper top and grab the crank bar from the milk crate. Note: Do NOT lose the crank.
Insert crank into the winch housing (right side as you face forward) and crank enough to raise the top about a foot. This allows you to open the door to retrieve some parts..
3) There are four marked bars -- two for the front and two for the back -- and a pair of "T" bars, which go in the front. (These are usually found on top of the forward mattress pad or underneath it). Take them all out.
4) Now, start cranking. You'll notice the green indicator wire on the forward left post. This gives you guidance on where you are in the process. Leave flexibility in the fabric walls. Note, the wire isn't taught when the roof is fully raised. It has a little slack in it. Like this.
4) Grab the two brass-colored stabilizer bars (these are usually placed on top of the forward bed). Place one in the front right and one in the rear left (as you look forward) posts. The angled flange is the top. Push it into place. Do NOT go inside the camper without these bars in place.
TIP: If the bars slide on to the lifter posts and there's a gap between the roof and the slider bar, lower the roof slightly. This will make it easier to get the top half of the door to fit in the bottom half later in the instructions.
5) Place the T-shaped bars in the front. The pin goes in the holes on the top edge. The flat edge on the bottom slips into the open brackets on the camper frame. Make sure the pin end is pushed down all the way or you won't be able to slide the fold-out out.
7) Attach two bars to the appropriate location. The color coding of blue tells you which slots on the camper tongue the bars go into. One end goes on the bracket under the bed, one goes on the frame of the camper. Once you put one end on the camper frame, use your back (or your friend) to lift the bed slightly to get the top end to slip into this bracket.
9) Repeat the same process, pulling out the back bed, using two
supporting bars.
10) Under each mattress, there are two "cane" hooks. Snap the end with the plastic fitting onto the center of the bed roof's aluminum frame, push it out (thus raising the roof) and snap the open end into the bracket near the ceiling. Repeat on the other bed.
11) Back outside, pull the vinyl sides down as need be (be sure the extra flap of vinyl covers the corners of the bed, to keep the sharp corner from cutting the vinyl) and snap the bungee cord to the nearby posts (8 in the front, 6 in the back). Seal up the fabric around each support post using the velcro. The better you are at sealing everything up, the fewer mosquitoes you'll be dealing with. And it also will keep out the rain. Think like a mosquito here.
12) The top of the door is clamped to the ceiling. Take note of how it's clamped; it'll come in handy when you put it back up.
Swing the door down, unfasten the velcroed door side pieces of the camper, fit the two black plastic extensions on the door frame, into the recesses of the bottom door, then latch the top to the bottom door. Then velcro the sides of the door. Be careful when doing this. There isn't a lot of support for the door when it's swinging up or down.
An important word about the door
The door assembly is the weakest link in the camper and takes a
somewhat delicate and nuanced approach. The black plastic
extrusion may not want to fit on the left side (as you face out). The horizontal metal plate at
the bottom of the door component that swings down has to be to the
inside of the bottom door frame. |
If you have difficulty getting the plastic tabs to fit in the slots, you might lower the roof slightly. Also be sure that all fabric is away from the door frame.
Once in place carefully secure the camper skin to the velcro on the door frame, being careful not to let it overlap and pinch the door, thus making it difficult to close.
At this point, your camper is ready. Set up and connect the propane tank.
There is a 12 volt battery in the milk crate. Place it in the area near the propane tank. Connect the black (+) first, then the white (-) wire.
Once you flip up all the circuit breakers of the power converter (wait to do this if you're hooking up to campground power) , you should now have ceiling lights. The rear light has a dimmer. The front light as the option to turn one or both halves on or off.
If you have an AC hookup, pull out the long cable on the left side of the camper and plug in. Inside the camper, near the floor on the forward right side, flip down the converter door and turn on all four circuit breakers.This will allow the AC (I'm not referring to air conditioning) to operate your DC circuits (lights) and recharge the battery. The powder blue circuit breaker should also be in the "on" position.
This will also allow the AC to recharge the battery.
If you have an AC hookup, the AC outlets will work. If you do not have an AC hookup, the AC outlets in the camper will not be powered, even if the battery is attached.
If you're operating only on battery, conserve energy as much as possible to prolong the life of the battery charge.
STOVE
I recommend all cooking be done outside; it's just safer and neater for everyone. The stove hooks to the side of the camper to the left of the door (the tab on the back of the stove hooks onto the lower tab on the side of the camper), with a support post underneath. Pull the gas line out, push the fitting from the stove into the connect switch (push it in hard) and turn the stem to lock it into place.
REFRIGERATOR
The second-preferred method is via propane. Turn on the gas at the propane tank. Turn the selector switch in the vent housing area to "gas", open the gas line (to the right), and turn the black knob to the left while holding it down. Wait a second and hit the red button to spark the propane at the burner. Then open the little viewing door and confirm that there is a blue flame in there. Adjust settings.
The battery is the least-preferred method but only because I haven't yet established how long that battery will last powering both lights and refrigerator.
You'll notice the burned area. The gas fitting broke there and a small flame ensued. The fitting has been replaced and all gas lines have been subsequently checked. Don't worry.
WATER
There is a filler hole on the left side of the camper. The tank is underneath the forward, left stow area (behind the power converter). Be sure the spigot is turned to the closed position (likewise, before you pack up, be sure it's turned to the open position. It drains to the ground.
(New for 2020): I've installed a water pump and replaced the faucet. If you have electrical power, and once the tank is filled), push the faucet down to activate the pump. Alternately, you may simply pump the faucet up and down to get water.
If you have campground water, you can hook it up to keep a constant pressure. At this point, however, I have not yet tested the connection to be sure there isn't a leak when using campground (aka: "city") water, so be careful. There's no pressure regulator installed, so don't open the campground water full blast.
If you prefer to schlep your own water, I have two camp water tanks you can borrow. Just ask.
All water tanks and lines are sanitized between rentals.
HEATER
The heater operates via the propane tank but requires an electrical connection to "spark" the burner. The thermostat is on the side of the cabinet with the sink. On the bottom of the thermostat, slide the on/off switch to the right, and move the thermostat on the top to the desired temperature. The furnace blower will start in a moment. Once started, it will blow air for a minute before the heat comes up.
Do not EVER leave the camper with the heater on, even if only for a minute.
A FEW IMPORTANT NOTES
1) Pack sheets. You must put down linens on all surfaces with peds.
Sheets are provided for the beds and must be used even even if you are using
sleeping bags. But if you have pets that will sleep elsewhere, put something
down.
2) There are no cooking or eating utensils or dishes provided with the camper.
3) The post for the second table is in the storage area in the rear, interior of the camper.
4) The table with the folding legs also serves as the third bed. If you don't need it, set it up outside or stow it under the camper. Just don't forget it when packing up.
5) The proper tire pressure for the camper is 80 psi. This is checked minutes before you arrive, but if you're driving a long way, please check when you stop for gas. There is no jack provided for changing tires HOWEVER I do have a floor jack which I will give you during your rental on request. Be sure to ask. Or not. Your choice.
If you paid for insurance, you may have roadside assistance. Check your Outdoorsy rental agreement to confirm this.
6) The camper weighs almost 2,000 pounds. Please be sure your vehicle is tow rated to tow that sort of weight. Be sure your electrical connection to your vehicle is in working order. The camper will not be released unless brake lights, turn signals, and lights are all working on the camper.
7) Somewhere in the camper, you'll find a travel diary. Please feel free to add your stories and experiences of your trip and any messages for other campers.
If none of this made sense, try this:
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